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blackbear



Joined: 08 Jul 2007
Posts: 285
Location: Northern Minnesota

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:41 pm    Post subject: Rifle Finish Maintainence  

How do you maintain the metal finish on your firearms?
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WesternHunter



Joined: 05 May 2006
Posts: 644
Location: Western USA

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:15 pm    Post subject:  

If it's blued or parkerized I don't do anything special. Then again I live in a relatively dry climate. Occasionally wipe down with a silicone impregnated reel cloth. But I generally don't even handle my guns unless they are being fired, cleaned, or inspected. Except for the occasional carry pistol. Generally after field strip, cleaning and reassembley I'll take a large patch or small cotton cloth and wet it with Hoppes No9 then apply it to the surface, then next I take a dry clean cloth and wipe the solvent dry, leaving just a thin film behind. Whatever residual kerosene from the Hoppes is left on the surface is all that is needed to neutralize any corrosive crud (fingerprint acid) or any contaminants that may be on the gun and any moisture from the air that may cause rust. As far as trying to keep my guns looking new....I don't worry about that one bit. All my guns are shooters and get used well, and most have the appearance to show it. :D
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JCalhoun



Joined: 09 Sep 2007
Posts: 184
Location: Mobile County, Alabama

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:09 pm    Post subject:  

Do NOT store them in a closed case. The padding traps moisture and that will lead to rusting.
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blackbear



Joined: 08 Jul 2007
Posts: 285
Location: Northern Minnesota

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:15 pm    Post subject:  

I had a neighbor who used his brothers shotgun on a rainy duck hunting trip. He cased the weapon and headed home. The next morning his brother opened the case to find the majority of metal had started to rust. This was about 40 years ago.
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Hammer1



Joined: 03 Dec 2005
Posts: 1477

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:28 pm    Post subject:  

Floor Paste wax is what I use. Never touch metal after field dressing an animal if you have blood on your hands, will oxidize in jig time.
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WesternHunter



Joined: 05 May 2006
Posts: 644
Location: Western USA

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:45 pm    Post subject:  

blackbear wrote: I had a neighbor who used his brothers shotgun on a rainy duck hunting trip. He cased the weapon and headed home. The next morning his brother opened the case to find the majority of metal had started to rust. This was about 40 years ago.

While I may do my best to prevent this, my Remington 11-87 and both 870 Express shotguns have all accidentally fallen in water and fully submerged at least once or twice over the years while duck hunting. Always good to have a dry towel and some WD-40 handy in this situation, but I don't always do. These guns have all been rained on, snowed on, frosted up, iced up, had water shaken all over them from dogs, and I suspect even pee'd on by hunting dogs :lol: . Some of these situations have resulted in some slight surface rust, or small discoloration in areas. Always gets zapped when I clean the guns. No full patina has developed yet. All my rifles, shotguns, and pistols are well maintained, but they do have rough lives when taken afield.

Bringing a gun indoors to room temperature that has spend a full day out in cold conditions can also be problematic. I've spent times duck hunting in early December in northeatsern Montana where day temps were around zero and not much above. Only open water are a few warm water sloughs. After a long day afield we'd return to the lodge and bring our equipment inside to a warm cabin. Within a matter of a few minutes I've watched our guns condense so much moisture on them that they were literally fully saturated and dripping water. Good thing to have a clean dry shop rag handy to wipe them down. I could only imagine what would have happen if these guns were cases and stored away for the season. Of all the sporting arms out there, it's the waterfowlers shotgun that gets exposed to the roughest use and conditions.
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WesternHunter



Joined: 05 May 2006
Posts: 644
Location: Western USA

Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:47 am    Post subject:  

Many of you already know, but light surface rust can be safely removed by applying gun oil to the affected area, letting it soak the area for 5 or 10 minutes and burnishing it off with a course cotton rag or buffing it with #0000 fine steel wool . Repeat if nessesary. A pencil eraser can be used in more difficult situations, but can also remove some of the finish and be more abrasive if not careful. Also have found JB Bore Paste to work pretty well on removing rust from a gun surface, it's got mild abrasives in it.

On a well maintained firearm a little surface rust never hangs around long, and if it does, it's really just cosmetic. Won't affect anything. You just have to be vigilant of that rust turning to corrosion and severe pitting in the steel. Usually only happens to severley neglected firearms. After all, a gun bluing finish is just controlled rusting anyway. That's what hot salt bluing and black oxide finishes are....oxidation of the steel.
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remington



Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Posts: 229
Location: Misouri

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:06 am    Post subject:  

Krylon is a very good friend of mine. Most my hard working guns are painted camo for the game at hand.
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rogie



Joined: 13 Aug 2007
Posts: 58
Location: north Idaho, USA

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:45 pm    Post subject:  

Anybody have a rifle done with ceramic polymer metal coatings by www.falcongunfinishing.com? I'm thinking of having a rifle done and would appreciate any feedback.
Rogie
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ELK-AHOLIC



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 109
Location: Seattle, WA

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:27 am    Post subject:  

After I get done shooting I wipe down all my guns with WD-40. It works fine.
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