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tesoronut
Joined: 02 Nov 2007
Posts: 176
Location: Southern Virginia
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| Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 1:01 am Post subject: I've bore-sighted scopes since the early '70s |
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| Best way in the world to "rough one in" I've had several rifles that I can remember, where they were dead on the money, and required no fine-tuning. I did own a Remington 700adl (243) once that you could not bore-sight. If you went by the bore, you would swear that the gun would shoot to the right. I bought that gun used, and it was a tack-driver. But it was as if the barrel was bent. Looks were very deceiving. |
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d3238
Joined: 02 Jan 2007
Posts: 145
Location: Lenexa, Kansas
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| Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 12:26 am Post subject: |
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| I'm having trouble sighting in my rifle. It is boresighted(supposely cabelas did it when they mounted my scope). I started off at 25 yards, and my 3 shots were up and to the left about equal distance. I tried adjusting the scope(I'm not sure which way to turn it) and it just made it worse. Ugh! |
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JCalhoun
Joined: 09 Sep 2007
Posts: 211
Location: Mobile County, Alabama
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| Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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What kind of scope is it? Does it have instructions? Don't worry, most shooters don't read them until there is a problem. Anyway, there should be arrows indicating which direction is up and which is right.
You can do what's called a poor man's bore sight if it's a bolt action. Set up at 25 yards (50 will do if that is as close as you can get). Remove the bolt from the action. Look down the bore from the chamber end and line the bore up with the target. Now gently (don't move the rifle) look through the scope. Repeat a few times until you get the hang of doing it without moving the rifle. Now, turn the elevation knob in the direction needed to bring the reticle to the center elevation of the target (you will see the reticle move). Do the same with the windage knob.
Put the bolt back in and chamber a round without moving the rifle too much. You should at least be on paper at 25 yards. Shoot the rifle a couple times and adjust the scope until the windage is centered and the elevation is at least close. Now take it to 50 yards and shoot and do the same thing. Once set at 50 yards take it to 100 yards and do it again. From there you can get zeroed at any distance with ease. |
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d3238
Joined: 02 Jan 2007
Posts: 145
Location: Lenexa, Kansas
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| Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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JCalhoun wrote: What kind of scope is it? Does it have instructions? Don't worry, most shooters don't read them until there is a problem. Anyway, there should be arrows indicating which direction is up and which is right.
You can do what's called a poor man's bore sight if it's a bolt action. Set up at 25 yards (50 will do if that is as close as you can get). Remove the bolt from the action. Look down the bore from the chamber end and line the bore up with the target. Now gently (don't move the rifle) look through the scope. Repeat a few times until you get the hang of doing it without moving the rifle. Now, turn the elevation knob in the direction needed to bring the reticle to the center elevation of the target (you will see the reticle move). Do the same with the windage knob.
Put the bolt back in and chamber a round without moving the rifle too much. You should at least be on paper at 25 yards. Shoot the rifle a couple times and adjust the scope until the windage is centered and the elevation is at least close. Now take it to 50 yards and shoot and do the same thing. Once set at 50 yards take it to 100 yards and do it again. From there you can get zeroed at any distance with ease.
I use a Burris FullField II. The elevation knob says which way is up, but the windage one doesn't say which way is right/left. At 25 yards, I was shooting about an inch up and an inch left of the bullseye. I would click the knob a few times down, and it didn't seem to make any difference. I think I will look into buying a rest for my rifle so I can have it (95%) steady and in the same spot and go shoot 40-50 rounds until it is dead on and I figure out how to use the scope better. |
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JCalhoun
Joined: 09 Sep 2007
Posts: 211
Location: Mobile County, Alabama
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| Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:03 pm Post subject: |
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I think the Fullfield II uses 1/4moa clicks. At 25 yards you won't notice as much movment so you probably need to put more clicks in. 1moa at 25 yards equals 1/4 inch.
As for the windage, I believe the arrow indicates right movement. If it doesn't have any indication at all you should contact Burris and ask why. |
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tesoronut
Joined: 02 Nov 2007
Posts: 176
Location: Southern Virginia
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| Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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| I have been visual bore-sighting for over 30 years, and it's a good way to "rough-in" your scope. I don't trust collumators. And, I thought of the cartridge lazer-light device before it ever hit the pages of Cabella's. Never followed through with the idea, though. Here's another idea that I thought of about 20 years ago, and to my knowlege, it's still not one on the market. I TRIED DESPERATELY to contact the folks at Knight black-powder guns. NONE OF THOSE PEOPLE WOULD RETURN A PHONE CALL. It's a simple idea for an in-line or breech-load gun. It's simply a plastic(or other material) cap to fit over the end of the barrel, or muzzle, of any designated make, model, or style gun. This cap will have a set of cross-hairs, or cross-wires, to look through(while bore-sighting). When you remove your breech plug,or bolt, and you have a good through-the-bore view, you simply line up your scope recticle with the cap-contained cross-hairs on a distant target. This should be done in a vice, or solid rest. Then, take the cap off and shoot to fine-tune. Just think.. If you could carry one of these in your pocket, and you dropped, or bumped your gun, and had some doubt as to whether you were "still on the money", you could pull the bolt or plug out, cap the barrel and look through to re-check, without firing a shot. And it would be a cheap item to manufacture......Just remember me if you can sell the idea... |
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tesoronut
Joined: 02 Nov 2007
Posts: 176
Location: Southern Virginia
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| Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 10:47 pm Post subject: |
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| If you are "chasing your shot" with the recticles of a scope, you will have to move the windage and elevation screws opposite of how you might think. As was mentioned earlier, when the gun is held firmly, or in a vice, you will see the cross-hairs move when you crank the screws. If you "chase the shots", mark them well on the paper, and visually crank your cross-hairs until they line up with your impact holes on the target. This being said, there are "kinda" two ways to accomplish scope sight-ins. Bottom line is to match bore with scope.Or, scope with bore. |
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atomikall
Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1964
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Bought a new 6-18x50 today I never new what I missing. Anyone had any experience with the banner series from Bushnell. |
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henry wilkins
Joined: 04 May 2008
Posts: 34
Location: atascadero,ca.
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| Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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| I had a Banner 3x9x40 before my Leupold . It was good , was always on, just not enough low light transmission. I use look thru barrel method to get on paper then 3-4 @ 50 to bore site then out to 100 and 200. My REM700 30-06 is sghted in @ 200yrd zero, 1 3/4" - 2 1/4" @ 100 depending on size165-180. I've had a heck of a time getting Barnes loads on, but now they are looking pretty sweet. I'll just have to re-sight for elk after muleies this year. |
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Hammer1
Joined: 03 Dec 2005
Posts: 1611
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| Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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I have a Banner Dusk/Dawn 3 -9 x 50 on my 22 mag. I tried it on my 270 to see if it would handle the recoil and it did with no problem. I removed it and put my 3-9 x 38 WA Bushnell Scopechief back on the 270.
In my opinion Bushnell has the best optics of all the scope manufacturers or I would simply buy the one that did, regardless of price. |
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atomikall
Joined: 27 Aug 2004
Posts: 1964
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| Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Too many people believe the more money you spend the better you get but In my opinion bushnell is right there with the best. One shot that bear didn't have time to death moan she dropped right where she was standing straight through the neck, through the lung and out the right shoulder never new what hit her. :thumbsup1: |
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northwolf
Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 16
Location: Northern Ontario
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| Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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My take:
To sight in scope initially, I look through the scope with both eyes open and "aim" at a fence post about 50 Yards away. Adjust the scope to roughly line up with the post, then I take it to my backyard and sight in at about 45 yards. When I hit the bull, I use a target at 200. Set it to 1" high at that range and you have the gun sighted from 0-300 for Moose!!
My fee..... "You shoot a moose, I get some meat"!! Works every time so far and I never had a year without Moose Meat when back surgery prevented me from hunting! |
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Romey
Joined: 24 Oct 2006
Posts: 225
Location: Montana
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| Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 1:19 am Post subject: |
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When we take hunters on trips we always make then resight, josteled firearms in transport, Humidit and other weather conditions also can effect ones zero, not to mention the guy who " yea i sighted in in last spring" but hadnt shot it or the common "its ok , i had it bore sighted" are all common issues we see guiding hunters. Most common, is simpley flat out not practicing or only practicing from a bench and not actual hunting situations.
I have another tip to sort of add to Dons tape tip. I take a roll of electrical tape and with a razor cut all the way around the tape as deep as possible about 5/8 of a inch apart. So when i need to cover holes in a target it peals off in 5/8 squares and no having to cut the tape or pull it apart. Can see the black small squares in your scope and if you fire through it it simpley makes another clean hole in it |
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