Because it is a solid copper bullet with a polymer tip I would expect a quicker expansion than deeper penetration on a animal the size of an elk. I personally don't like a "tipped" bullet for elk. Most of them are designed to open up quick on thin skinned animals such as deer and antelope, but they will work on a animal the size of an elk. Just don't hit him in the shoulder and expect for him to drop and be ready for a follow up shot.
You'll have to let us know how they perform when you get that bull.
I toompersoanlly think that the cooper core of the E tip bullet will allow for faters expansion, which like said will take away from some of your penetration. I think the E Tip is a good decent bulley but woulf not be my forst choice for an elk or large boned animals. I personally shoot the Nosler Accubond...while it too do have a polymer tip I have had nothing but great ruslts from this bullet. I got a complete pass thru on a cow elk at 355 yards....she went 30 yards and was down for good.
I as well would like to hear some field reports on how the tipped bullets work. According to what I have read they should still penetrate better than conventional bullets due to the extremely controlled expansion due to the bullet material. Supposedly the tip was added to the triple shocks because of poor expansion when velocity dropped to low. The tip was supposed to ensure expansion and add to the aerodynamics as well. I hunt with the Barnes triple shocks with the conventional hoolw point but would like to see a comparison between the two types.
I will never hunt with ballistic tips again and have even seen some pretty devastating results with the accubonds. They penetrated very well with very quick expansion. By the same principle these should open quickly and penetrate a little better.
I tend to shoot bullets with a little lead in them for fragmentation, so I normally lean towards heavier for caliber stuff for elk. But, my biggest bull was shot with something similar in a 130 TSX .270 WSM. Light for caliber seems to work fine when using monometals.
I am NOT an expert. But I'm too cheap to pay for anyone else to do the job (local shop wanted $200 to tan my coyote hide). I've used this recipe for rabbit hides, deer hides, a moose skin, and a coyote pelt. I've adapted this recipe from one I found online. Feel free to use it but use this tip at your own risk and comply with all local laws wherever you are. When butchering: Cool the hide as soon as you can get it off the animal. Remove the hide form the...