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Who does there own fletching?

What's a good setup for doing your own fletching?
What tools, glue, type fletching, etc. works best?
Any tricks?

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Who does there own fletching?

Welcome to the world of arrow making.
It's hard to go wrong with any of the name brand fletching jigs.

My set up is.
2 - 6 arrow JoJan's. One is set for straight right wing and the other helical right wing.
Denatured alcohol to clean inside and outside of shafts.
Bohning Fletch tite and Fletch tite Platinum glue.
Fast set gel.
Duco cement.
Hot melt glue.
AAE Elite 4" parabolic fletches.
Gateway 5" shield and parabolic feathers.
Brass barrel brushes for cleaning inside of shaft.
Fletching/feather removal tool.

This set up will work for carbon, aluminum and wood shafts with any diameter.

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Who does there own fletching?

What are the pro's / con's of straight and helical?
When you say right wing, what exactly does that mean?
Which do you prefer 4" or 5", and why?
Any advantages to the 2" vanes?
I see some jigs with 3 clamps and some with just one, how do you assure the fletchings are evenly spaced with the one clamp?
Is it necessary to have a high speed cutter to cut shafts?

Thanks for the Help and Advice Big smile

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Who does there own fletching?

Bitzenburger jig. Tru Flight feathers, and fast set gel seem to be everything I need for putting together my arrows. Sometimes i get fancy and dip the shafts and crest them other times I cheat with a arrow wrap. What i dont do is carry store bought looking arrows much anymore.

Helical straight makes a big difference in arrow stabilization espescially with broadheads. Theroy goes right handed shooters need to use right hand feathers and left handers use left wing feathers. Never really been able to pin point why it would make a difference either way but I will tell you if your using right wing feathers you want a right wing clamp. Same for the left wing feathers, use a leftwing clamp.

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Who does there own fletching?

Arrow saw depends on the shaft type. Definately want it for carbons but aluminums can be cut with a standard pipe cutter. The saw makes quick work of all that though and is a must if your planning on building a bunch.

Most of the single clamp jigs like the Bitzenburger had a rotating knob on the bottom of the jig that is indexed to stop on the next right spot. There is some calibration needed when switching to different diameter shafts.

I have always used 4 inch feathers on my compounds. They stabilize an arrow fine and still maintain pretty good clearance off cables. rests, and riser.

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Who does there own fletching?

Do you use helical John? Do they work OK with match points and target shooting?

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Who does there own fletching?

Yes I do and I see no ill effects from using them short of some clearance issues that can be caused in some rest types. I have never delved into target archery much, nor have I played around with mini vanes mounted in a straight configuration. However I think at competition archery levels of tuning shaft stabilization is probably much less of an issue than your average hunting tuned rig. These guys dont step to the line with broadheads and rigs that shoot anything less than bullet holes. They can get away with small fletchings and saved clearence/drag/weight issues you get from larger fletchings.

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Who does there own fletching?

What kind of bow and what material are your arrows.

For the compounds I prefer a carbon or aluminum shaft with a 4" straight right wing offset. I set the jig so the fletchings are just about an edge to edge diagonal to the shaft.
For the traditionals i prefer an aluminum or wood shaft with a 5" helical right wing offset. Again, I set the jig so the feathers are just about an edge to edge diagonal to the shaft.
Right wing fletching will rotate the arrow clockwise.
Helical will stabilize a larger broad, faster. It will also slow the arrow quicker.
The more feather/fletching you have on an arrow the better the stability. This can be overdone.
I make a lot of arrows, when I make them. The high speed cutter comes in handy. A necessity for carbons.

Your release method and/or style will determine how best to set up your arrows for target shooting performance. I have seen two, three and four inch fletchings used with equal proficiency.

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Who does there own fletching?

Compound bow and I just switched to carbons tonight.
Was having some real issues with my new bow and finally figured out the cause. I couldn't get any consistency in my shots, my vanes were becoming warped after couple shots and tearing after about 10. Obviously hitting something. Took it to the my bow man several times and he paper tuned it, did a powder check, rechecked everything and it shot perfect for him. So he had me come in and gave me some hands on tips and had me do a paper tune and it shot perfect. I get home and its back to shooting every where and tearing fletchings.
Here's what we finally figured out. I put a new drow away rest on it and it came with a little foam piece that sticks on the riser bench to keep the arrow in place when not drawn. My shafts were just short enough that the broadhead was behind this piece of foam at full draw. When I released the blades were hitting this piece of foam and causing havoc. When we were paper tuning of course we were using field points and couldn't detect the problem at the shop. Finally I can get back to concentrating on the hunt instead of worrying about my bow.
I plan on making my arrows from now on. Thanks for all the advice and help again Thumbs up

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Who does there own fletching?

The Arizona EZ fletch for carbon is a nice little one arrow at a time jig. It works very well with Fastset gel. If you've never used the fastset. You may want to practice first. It is fast and is like using super glue. It will glue your fingers together.
I like Bohnings Fletch Tite Platinum. It works well on both carbon and aluminum but, takes several minutes to set. I prefer it for the 6 arrow jig I use.
After you get the vanes or feathers set to the shaft. Be sure to put a small drop of glue at the leading end of the fletching. This will help keep it from coming off.
Be sure to thoroughly clean the the shaft at the glue areas. Especially, the inside where the insert will be set. I would recommend a 24 hour 2 part epoxy for the insert. There is a lot of wear and stress on this with shooting targets and pulling arrows. A 1 hour set will work but, the 24 hour is better.
Either way use epoxy for the insert on carbons.
Hot melt or epoxy for aluminum shaft inserts.

If you make a mistake with either the hot melt or the epoxy. The part can be removed with heat.

A small alcohol burner or butane burner will be handy for heating.

Be sure to use the correct insert and be sure that it is set all the way in.
A spin test will tell you if they were set straight.

If you use hot melt for the inserts on aluminum. Have the shaft ready. Heat the insert. Apply glue by touching insert to glue stick. Twist the insert as you set it. Wipe off excess with a paper towel.

No matter what glue you use for the inserts. Always twist to set them. This will ensure a better bond.

It is important that the insert are glued well. They will come out and be left in the target or partially come out.

Don't hesitate to ask if you have any other questions.

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Who does there own fletching?

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