I've got Aluminum on all my guns except my 300 ultra mag....that one i put steel on. But i'm sure it would hold up with aluminum rings as i have them on my wsm and have not had a problem with them creeping what so ever! I also use rosin on my rings which makes a world of difference!
I like and have steel on all of mine. However I don't see any drawback to aluminum though. I've never used rosin on the inner of my rings, but it sounds like a very worth while technique. It's important to make sure that your rings perfectly are parellel to each other and that your base screws are secure tight. Only until recently have I found specific torque numbers for ring and base screws. I've always just made the ring screws snug (don't want the scope tube getting distorted) and the base screws firmly hand tight. I've never bothered to invest in a Wheeler toque driver. I just use a few good basic tools when I've mounted my optics or those for friends. Tools like those Torx and Hex drivers from either Bondhus or Proto. I have some specializes tools from Leupold too. Also found that if you spray a degreaser on the screws and in the holes, they tend to hold very well without working their way loose from recoil over time. Always worked great for me since I've never had to use Loctite.
One of the things I struggle with when afield is keeping my rifle clean and in good working order. Small amounts of dust and dirt collect moisture; moisture can freeze rendering your action immovable when you need it most. I have seen this happen on multiple occasions, and over time, I’ve learned the cause and how to prevent this from happening.
The first thing that you need to avoid before going afield is leaving excess oil on the gun. Oil will trap dirt and sand in all the wrong places....