I have been loading metallic cartridges for years and have decided to start loading shotshells. Are all hulls reloadable? My books only list a few such as Winchester AA. Are the super x's reloadable as well? How about the ones from the cheap 100 round packs? Also lists Rem STS. How about the regular Remingtons? The gun club I belong to just throws all hulls away which seems like a waste to me. I have a few hundred AA's I plan to sttart with as well as a few Federal heavy field loads. Any loads would be appreciated as well as far as what seems to give the best results. I want to load ammo to shoot trap as well as use for pheasant and quail hunting. Thanks. CJ
7 replies [Last post]
Sat, 2009-05-23 19:15
Sun, 2009-05-24 04:41#1
I reloaded shotgun for a while but then gave it up. It was the biggest pain in the @$$ to load for me. I got off on the wrong foot and bought a lee fastload progressive and it never did work right. That being said, Almost all shotshells are reloadable. The cheap ones can go either way depending how they are made. Most have the alum. bases on them and do not reload at all well. If they have brass bases, generally they will reload well. Most 2.75 field and 3" magnums hulls are reloadable. The cheap clay shooting ammo is the usual culprit. The only thing to look for is some hulls are a 6 point crimp and some are an 8 point crimp and you generally need the right crimping head for each.
Wed, 2009-05-27 19:43#2
I didn't find shotshell reloading worth my while even with a Mec 9000G progressive. I was able to save about 20 cents a box relaoding AA over the cheaper stuff at WallMart or Sportsmans Warehouse. At $2 a case saved, it was not worth my time.
I thought about getting serious about shooting in the clays games, but it cuts into my fishing time too much. I believe if you were poking out 400 to 600 rounds a week, it might be worth it.
I did build some pretty slick duck loads based on a AA hull. #3 steel moving at over 1600 fps did some serious damage. But then again, resetting the press to load a couple hundred rounds of steel was hardly worth it.
Thu, 2009-05-28 15:10#3
I save a lot on 16 and 28ga but thats all I would reload anymore.
All hulls are reloadable just some much better than others. As I recall, some of the cheaper Win and Rem hulls were good ones, one piece hulls. Look in the hull and note the base. If it's a wad it's not worth your time usually. Quite often that base wad will stick to the decapper and pull out, agravating! The one piece hulls are great. Mostly I've used Win AA'a and Rem unibodys. Unibodies included Blue Magic hulls but I don't think they are around any more.
The biggest hassle for me was load developement, it don't seem to exist. You need to get a load out of a manual and follow it to the letter, don't diveate, to dangerious.
One good thing about loading 12's and 20's still would be being able to chose shot. An once of 9's weight's the same as an once of OO. Once you get the recipe down and components gather, you can just change shot size to suit yourself, at least I did. Another thing with 12's, really easy to make up good 1 1/8th oz loads with 5 and 6 shot if you want. I did that to control recoil and gave up nothing in hunting loads.
Fri, 2009-05-29 12:04#4
I loaded my first 100 rounds last night with 1 1/8 oz shot and Longshot powder at a velocity of around 1420. Much faster than the loads I have been buying.
Fri, 2009-07-17 10:38#5
I've been reloading 12s for about a year. Its the only way that shooting trap is affordable for me. I have found that I shoot better with higher velocity loads (in my case Herco powder instead of Red Dot). It is worth reloading to me just to have the ability to shoot if teh price of shells ever go the way of centerfire cartridge market.
Fri, 2009-07-17 11:13#6
Welcome to BGH Mike!