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Joined: 01/12/2010
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Scope mount questions

Hi all. I am new to hunting. I plan on deer hunting this upcoming fall. Anyway, I just purchased a remington 700 ADL and a nikon 3-9 x 40 scope. My question is how would you recommend that I attach the scope to the rifle. I have seen pictures of diffent scenarios. I do not plan on removing the scope, so I did not plan on adding a rail. I am leaning toward a mount that will attach directly to the rifle. I am conserned about how the cartridge will enter and exit the rifle. Any input would be appriciated.

WesternHunter's picture
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Joined: 05/05/2006
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Re: Scope mount questions

Hello and welcome,
How is your Nikon mounted now? Scopes attatch with rings that attach to a single base or a set consisting of two seperate ring bases. The base(s) is attches with allen screws or torx screws directly to the receiver of the rifle, if the reciever is drilled & tapped, most modern guns are drilled and tapped at the factory. The rings are twisted into the bases and held by tension, finally the scope itself is placed onto the bottom ring assembly and held in by tension/friction from the top ring assembly being torqued down snug enclosing the scope tube. I have described a typical sporting rifle and scope setup. There are various types of bases and rings, adjustable, detachable, etc. I have described the most common. I've mounted several scopes on my rifles and those of friends and family members, doing the work all myself. There are a couple essential specific tools that you will need to properly mounts a scope. If you need more detail, let me know. Hope this helps.

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Re: Scope mount questions

I also need to add to my post and mension objective lense size will determine how high your rings will need to be, the bases are also sized and shaped to specific reciever makes. Also they are dependent on long action or short action. You will also need to make sure that the objective lense does not touch any part of the rifle, leave at least a 1/8 inch distance of clearance, this is dependent on your ring height. Set your scope in the rings at the proper eye reliefe - Before tightening down the top ring assebelies shoulder your rifle with the scope sitting free in the bottom ring assebelies. Move the scope forward or aft until you are seeing a perfect circle field of view through the scope, then snug down the top rings. Also make sure your cross hairs are exactly verticle and horizontal 90°/270° and 0°/180°before tightening down the screws. Base screws should be very tight. Ring screws should only be snug, don't overtighten or you can crush your scope tube. Use Loctite compound if you have to. Also all scews need to be tightened in a "step-down" process, turning one screw a bit then turning the screw on the opposite side a bit then back and forth etc, this helps to even the tension and torque of all the screws so all the screws are carrying the same load. Make sure before doing any of this that your firearm is completely unloaded and that you don't have any ammo in the room. Remove the bolt while doing all of this.

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Joined: 01/12/2010
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Re: Scope mount questions

Thanks for very detailed reply. The scope is not mounted to the rifle yet. Your tips will be very helpful. I plan on mounting the scope this weekend. I will let you know how it turns out.

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Re: Scope mount questions

In my opinion if you have never mounted a scope on a rifle or seen it done it is best to take it to a dealer or gun smith and have them do it. They will also bore sight it to get you on paper at 100 yards. Mounting it yourself isn't that much of a job but you do need to know how it is done or you will either shoot the mounts or scope loose while trying to sight it in. I have been doing my own gun smithing for over 20 years now and even I have had a problem creep up every now and then with screws coming loose.

WesternHunter's picture
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Re: Scope mount questions
Critter wrote:
In my opinion if you have never mounted a scope on a rifle or seen it done it is best to take it to a dealer or gun smith and have them do it. They will also bore sight it to get you on paper at 100 yards. Mounting it yourself isn't that much of a job but you do need to know how it is done or you will either shoot the mounts or scope loose while trying to sight it in. I have been doing my own gun smithing for over 20 years now and even I have had a problem creep up every now and then with screws coming loose.

True sometimes screws work loose over time. I find occasional use for loctite compound. I don't have specific torque numbers for those screws in-lbs, but I do find that tightening those screws in a "step-down" process helps each fastener to carry equal tension. I learned the importance of specific torque values and step-down tightening long ago when working on engines and such. I commend him for wanting to do the mounting himself, but I do recommend that he have an experienced person show him, even if he has to pay a gunsmith for his time to allow him to watch the process once, it's well worth it. You see, though he may be new to hunting and shooting, and has bought his first rifle and scope, trust me, it won't be his last rifle purchase. So learning early on to do this stuff himself is worth a small fee he may have to pay a gunsmith to get a first hand experience mounting a scope. Or maybe he knows someone who can show him for free.

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Re: Scope mount questions

Thanks again for all of the advise. I decide to let the guys at Acadamy mount the scope for me. They did it for free with the purchase of the mount parts. I still need to fine tune the scope, but they said that it should be close. Thanks again for your insite.

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Re: Scope mount questions

Hopefully they bore sighted it for you as well. If they didn't you can easily do that yourself, all you'll need is a good rest or gun vise and a fixed point at 25 yards. A nail head on a fence post works well for your bore sight target, even a sticky dot works.

To fine tune it after bore sight I'd recommend starting with three 3-shot groups at 50 yards. the first group to find out where it's hitting and make adjustmens, then the second and third to prove it's adjusted at 50. Once zero'd at 50 then move out to fine tuning at 100 yrds. Then finally make your fine tuning at whatever distance you want the scope zero'd. Just make sure you keep the barrel relatvely cool while sighting in. You can do this by taking your time when shooting each group and allowing a few minutes between groups. Rule of thumb is that if the barrel is too hot to hold your hand on then you are shooting too fast, accuracy goes pretty quickly with an over heated barrel. Hope this helps.

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