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Mr. Tndeerhunter. Sorry right

Mr. Tndeerhunter. Sorry right back. I meant no disrespect. Maybe just reading too much into a blank statement. Maybe I came off wrong, but, you can understand my frustration. I've been working on this gun for 3 days and you offer me advice on cleaning rifles. Not really what I was asking for in my post. I said I would send the rifle to Browning if I couldn't get it back together.

I talked to my dad about this rifle before he passed away from cancer. He was fine with me trading it in on another rifle. He just didn't trust giving it to my other brother's who don't take their weapon apart like me, and because it is unique in design. It lacks a hammer block or safety. I still have 3 other rifles he left that I will pass on to future generations. You see, his greatest memories where of him and his 4 boy's hunting deer and elk, together, for more than 20 years. Nothing meant more to him than hunting with his sons. He was my best friend. The fact that I continue to hunt and pass it along to other members of my family is what matters. This is what was most important to my father.

 

 

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I don't think the OP has a

I don't think the OP has a problem with headspace.  Rather I would look at the chamber and make sure it is not rough or has any debris.  Then I'd look at the brass and make sure its not rough.  BLR's have a hard time generating the extracting power that the same cartridge in a bolt action would get.  Combine this with a rough/tight chamber and/or brass and it can be hard to remove an expanded round.  This leads to another problem with reloads.  Some BLR/BAR and other lever/semi-auto users find they have to use small base dies in order to get the reloaded brass as close to spec as possible.  Not every lever/semi requires this but definitely some get greatly improved chambering/extraction from small base die reloaded rounds.

In diagnosing a tight chamber issue, I usually try to run cleaned up brass through the action and then see where if any scraps I can find on the side of the case or shoulder.  Another trick is to take a magic marker and color the entire brass and then run it through the action to see where it is dragging.

Personally, while just guessing, I don't think wyorat's issue is related to OAL, simply because it sounds like a brass problem (assuming both cases are of the same length and shape and at spec).  OAL issues usually appear on the bullet ogive, which again can be found by coloring the bullet black and then seeing if the lands dig into the ogive when fully chambering the round.  Of course it maybe that the OAL is too long and its simply digging into the feed ramp trying to get up into the chamber.  Kind of difficult to diagnosis without seeing the gun in action.

Don Fischer's picture
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I would think if it were

I would think if it were headspace one of two things would happen. Either you couldn't close the bolt on a round or the fired case would be showing signs of case head seperation. If neither of those are present I'd think something like a rough chamber myself.

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Thanks guys. I emailed a

Thanks guys. I emailed a gunsmith shop that has people who used to work for Browning. They sad," Even if the gun is together and the bolt is fully closed doesn't mean it is put back together properly. There are many small adjustments that need to be made for the rifle to works properly."

Thanks for the tip on using markers to see if there is a clearance  problem.  Everything looked good. I no longer think it's the ammo.

This thing is just hard to put back together. I guess my timing is still off. I called one of my dad's old buddies up and he said the ammo ran fine through his 358win. 3 of the boxes a ammo I have are from him. All ordered from Conely Precision.  The ammo worked before, so it should work now.

The only reason I thought OAL  was the problem is because the Barnes site's OAL for this load is shorter than what Conely Precision seats it at. And at the Barnes OAL the rifle levers and loads just fine. Go figure.

Oh well. I'll give it a couple more shots before I send it in.

 

Tndeerhunter's picture
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Again

This is Jimbo's thred. You two want to continue this, take it to PM's.

Don

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See above! Don 

See above!

Don 

Tndeerhunter's picture
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See above Don

See above

Don

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Not sure if this link will

Not sure if this link will work, but its an assembly/disassembly guide for the non-breakdown version of the BLR.  After reading the guide and your symptoms it probably is headspace related in your case.  Although without the gun in hand its difficult to tell.

Anyway if the link doesn't work, its on google books. 

The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly: Centerfire Rifles, Volume 4 page 46.

http://books.google.com/books?id=Wj4UdDGBbYwC&dq=browning+disassembly+bl...

The gears on the lever set the headspace and they discuss the process to headspace correctly.

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go-no-go

bitmasher wrote:

Not sure if this link will work, but its an assembly/disassembly guide for the non-breakdown version of the BLR.  After reading the guide and your symptoms it probably is headspace related in your case.  Although without the gun in hand its difficult to tell.

Anyway if the link doesn't work, its on google books. 

The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly: Centerfire Rifles, Volume 4 page 46.

http://books.google.com/books?id=Wj4UdDGBbYwC&dq=browning+disassembly+bl...

The gears on the lever set the headspace and they discuss the process to headspace correctly.

 

Would he not need a set of go-no-go guages to properly check and set the headspace?

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I believe he would. Most

I believe he would. Most decent gunsmith's have them.

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