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Location: San Jose,CA
Joined: 03/29/2005
Posts: 35
new to bow hunting

Can anyone tell me how to figure what size bow to get? I know it's about draw length. But how is it measured? There aren't any archery shops within 20 miles. And the sporting goods stores have nothing but kids bows.

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Location: upper midwest
Joined: 03/29/2005
Posts: 7
Re: new to bow hunting
rckjeep wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to figure what size bow to get? I know it's about draw length. But how is it measured? There aren't any archery shops within 20 miles. And the sporting goods stores have nothing but kids bows.

Stand with your back against a wall. Raise your arms shoulder height. Place the back of your palms against the wall open hand. Have some one make a mark at each tip of your longest finger. Measure the total distance and divide by 2.5 to determine your draw length.
IE.. My total length was 71” I then divide that by 2.5 for a total of 28.4”
PT

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Location: San Jose,CA
Joined: 03/29/2005
Posts: 35
new to bow hunting

so stand against the wall like a cross and measure tip to tip. Got it. Thanks

70.75 / 2.5 = 28.3

Now I'm looking for a Recurve but the one's I've looked at online don't say what the draw length is. So what size should I get? I'm about 5'10" 190 lbs.

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Location: upper midwest
Joined: 03/29/2005
Posts: 7
new to bow hunting

There ya go.
I could actually go down to a 27.5 “ because of my arrow rest.
I prefer to cut at 28” (an inch past the rest) and that still puts the tip of the arrow inside the window. Most have there arrows cut at the very front (belly) of the riser.
I line my fixed broad heads so they allow for maximum clearance near the riser. How I do that is, after I glue in the threaded insert. I screw in the broad head, reheat the glue, then turn the head and the insert to a location that allows the blades to clear the riser. Sometimes you have to use the same head with the same arrow because the threads are slightly different. You may have one a bit off and not clear the riser when you pull back the bow. Mechanicals will not have this problem so the arrows can be cut to a half to one inch before the rest with no worries.
PT

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Location: San Jose,CA
Joined: 03/29/2005
Posts: 35
new to bow hunting

I'm so new at this that I have no idea what you are talking about sorry. So you cut the arrows to match your draw length?

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Location: upper midwest
Joined: 03/29/2005
Posts: 7
new to bow hunting
rckjeep wrote:
I'm so new at this that I have no idea what you are talking about sorry. So you cut the arrows to match your draw length?

Sorry about that,
no not always, the 28.3 you have determined is your draw length. So as you go to set up your bow that will be the ideal setting.
Arrow length is determined by two ways that I know of.
One, cut to the front of the riser (belly)
Two, an inch in front of your arrow rest.
Usually if you are using an arrow rest that is of the flipper type or glued on. This may be the case if you are going to shoot a recurve. Then most arrows are cut to the front of the riser. That being the case the arrow will be longer then your draw length.

In my case I use a compound with a fall away rest. So I can have arrows at the same cut as my draw length. Even an inch shorter if I want. My rest is setting behind the inside (back) of the riser. Like an over draw apparatus is used to have shorter arrow length.
Sorry for being confusing I hope this is not more so.
PT

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Location: upper midwest
Joined: 03/29/2005
Posts: 7
new to bow hunting
rckjeep wrote:
I'm so new at this that I have no idea what you are talking about sorry. So you cut the arrows to match your draw length?

this might help with better explaining my confusing text.

http://www.archersreference.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/archref_04.pdf

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Location: San Jose,CA
Joined: 03/29/2005
Posts: 35
new to bow hunting

thanks that helps a lot.

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Location: Camp lejeune
Joined: 04/06/2005
Posts: 4
new to bow hunting

Another new archer here, how do i determine how much stabilizer i need?

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Location: upper midwest
Joined: 03/29/2005
Posts: 7
new to bow hunting
SorenPAL wrote:
Another new archer here, how do i determine how much stabilizer i need?

Stabilizers now days have become more then a tool to balance the bow. Now they are used more so to help control sound and vibration at the riser and grip area. Not to mention esthetics.

In my case my bow is pretty well off with less vibration and excess noise. So I use a ten inch stabilizer to balance my bow more then sound and comfort control.
What I mean by balance is, the bow should slightly fall forward or stay in a perpendicular position. (up right) Hold your bow up in front of you in the shooting position without pulling back the string. Loosen your grip enough so the bow will be free to move but not fall. If the bow falls back at you then you need to stabilize the balance by adding weight in the front. If the bow falls forward to quickly you may need to go with a V-bar type stabilizer to slow the action or hold a better position.
V bars are adjustable in such a way that they can be pivoted back behind the bow or as added weight to the front. Most professional and Olympic archers will have use for v-bars.

Bring your bow to a professional tuner and have them help you with balance first then later on look at vibration and sound control. The reason I say balance first is because you should learn to shoot with as close to perfect form as possible. Sound and vibration can be salved as you learn more about how and why they are important. If you are lucky you may find a stabilizer that will do both. I got lucky with one made by Doinker.
PT

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Location: calif.
Joined: 04/12/2005
Posts: 37
new to bow hunting

Ihave to say bal. is key lol archery only in fremont wayne the owner with help anybody who ask for it lol

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