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Location: CA Central Coast
Joined: 12/01/2005
Posts: 151
need some advice/input

If you mean that little stripe, that's just an area where the wood got burned a little from the Dremel. All of the wood is the same until you get to the cap.

Don Fischer's picture
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Location: Antelope, Ore
Joined: 03/24/2005
Posts: 3205
need some advice/input

Ok. Then it has to be somewhere between the centerline of the stock and the left side of the action cutout. Try this, place a piece of paper in the action cut out and try to work it the same as the barrel channel. Once that's free, if it doesn't settle down, it has to be in the rear tang area. When I bed a rifle, I let out that whole area quite a bit and let the bedding compound refill it. Not an unsightly gap but enough to be sure there is no binding. I use a dremel and under cut the top edge of the stock to hide it. Then before reinstalling it, I put a couple thickmess's of painters tape to insure a small gap all the way around. Remember the bottom only needs to have full contact. If you do that, let me know first. The rear guard screw hole needs to be plugged and the barrel shimed to keep it up at the front where it belongs. It's easy!

One more thing I forgot to ask. When the barrel shifts, How snug is the rear tang when it does it? Wondering if that seating area is not flat. If it's not, the screw could pull it down flat and twist the action enough to move the barrel a bit. Put it together and tighten and loosen the screw watching what the barrel does.

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Location: CA Central Coast
Joined: 12/01/2005
Posts: 151
need some advice/input

A little more detail on the barrel movement to the left: last night I sat and studied it for awhile, without removing any wood. There appear to be two fulcurms (if that's the right term): the vertical fulcum is indeed where I said (just behind the receiver lug), and the horizontal fulcrum seems to be right in the middle of the cutout for case loading/ejection.

If that's the fulcrum, then that would seem to be where I should remove some more of the stock, right?

I'll try using some paper to get more data later this evening.

Again, feel free to leave comments in my gallery...I welcome any input.

Don Fischer's picture
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Location: Antelope, Ore
Joined: 03/24/2005
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need some advice/input

Yea! I do believe your getting the hang of this! Go for it.

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Location: CA Central Coast
Joined: 12/01/2005
Posts: 151
need some advice/input

Update...this evening I continued to take wood away along the left side of the action. When I tighten down the screws, it still goes to the left, maybe just a little less than it did. The bottom line, though, is simply that the rearmost part of the action simply doesn't want to sit in the center of its seating area...it wants to go to the right.

Curiously enough (at least to me), when I only install the front screw, this still happens. That has me wondering whether the supporting area (where the fiberglass is) could be slightly uneven, but...this would seem to make the action tilt, not rotate. In any event, that's a part of the stock I am VERY reluctant to even touch.

I'm getting very close to sending this to you, Don...any other ideas at this point?

Don Fischer's picture
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Location: Antelope, Ore
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need some advice/input

Huh. Get it relieved on the side of the action. It it still does it then, I need to think more. I'm wondering if it's the bearing serface of the recoil lug. Man that sounds like a screwed up stock. He's the deal tho, it has to sit flat in there.

You had stress all over the barrel channel and in the action cutout. Hard to believe it got out of the factory. Sounding like your gonna need to bed the whole action. Still not that big a deal. Bedding is pretty simple.

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Location: Mobile County, Alabama
Joined: 09/09/2007
Posts: 310
need some advice/input

Have you considered replacing the stock?

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Location: CA Central Coast
Joined: 12/01/2005
Posts: 151
need some advice/input

I think I have made a breakthrough of sorts...I just hope it isn't a pyrrhic victory.

I finally gave in and started relieving the seating area for the rear tang. I'd done everything else I could think of, and it still wanted to seat to the right (pushing the barrel to the left). Now, when I tighten the screws, the barrel is pretty much centered.

The problems I may have created are:

1. I wan't able to faithfully recreate the curve of the tang, and as a result, the area in the very middle under the tang has a bit of a gap.

2. I seem to have removed enough material that the rear screw, when tightened down, sticks into the channel for the bolt follower (or whatever it's called) about 1-2 threads deep. I can still cycle the bolt, but I do feel some drag. I could grind the end of the screw, but before I do...will bedding the stock put the action up higher again, so the screw doesn't stick through?

Thanks a lot for all the help, guys...at least I feel we have made some progress.

Oh: I'm also almost out of factory ammo. I don't want to shoot any more factory loads until I'm done making modifications and can do an apples-to-apples comparison with some handloads.

Don Fischer's picture
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Location: Antelope, Ore
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need some advice/input

Sounds like you have it. Now just do a bit of bedding. As for the screw, I'm thinking you mean the fromt guard screw is projecting thru into the front of the action and the bolt lugs are rubbing on it? If that's it, simply file down the screw until it doesn't drag any more.

For the small gap in the rear tang area, bedding compound will fix that. Here wold be where Micro bed works well, it's brown and helps hide the imperfection. Sounds like you had a really screwed up stock. Congrats for hanging in there and fixing problems. As we went along you went from confussion the noticing things. Once you started noticing things, you were looking and it was only a atter of time till you found it. Good job!

Don Fischer's picture
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Location: Antelope, Ore
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Posts: 3205
need some advice/input

Just re-read you post. It's the rear tang screw sticking thru. No problem. Just file it down so nothing drags on it. Put the rifle together and thghten the guard screws. Next remove the rear tang screw only and look thru the hole. Make sure the screw isn't touching wood anywhere thru the stock. If it look's like it is, just relieve it with a bit larger brill bit.

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