ok so heres my problem.. i only got 20 days till deer seaon starts for modern firearm and after that is elk... well when i shoot, my first shot is off then try a few more times then the shots are in the kill zone but not in a group like im flinching...... i havnt shot my remington 1917 3006 in a few months because i thought it was a mauser when i bought it (the guy messed up on the labeling i guess) and i was trying to find new mounts and rings for em because my old ones got striped when i bought a brand new scope because my other scope went tits up earlyer this year.. so shooting is back to square one which shouldve been done months ago. now im in a time crunch. any suggestions?? oh and i have a bi pod on it to help stableize the rifle too.. any help would be great thanks!
9 replies [Last post]
Sun, 2008-09-21 21:23
Sun, 2008-09-21 21:42#1
Are you using store bought ammo or self loads. We are dealing with a simliar issue with a sako 270. Wish I could tell you i solved it but I can't. I will tell you what I am trying. We have loaded a series of rounds with less fps to try as well as 2 types of powder.. Will hopefully get out tomorrow to find out if it works. We are only able to get a 3in group at 100yds now and that is a kill but not a confidence builder.
Sun, 2008-09-21 21:48#2
using remington cor lokt 165gr.... ya the first shot is off center anywhere from 4 to 7in then the others are with n a dead on to 4" group around it.. when i first sighted it in last week at 25yrds it was high withmy last 3 shots bout 1/2 an inch to 1 inch.. today its landing ok but im not getting the group i want. im sure its my form. but i duno
Wed, 2008-09-24 20:28#3
It could very well be you. It's hard to say without being there. Is the stock a cut down military or a wood or synthetic replacement? Either way you'll want to make sure the stock isn't putting any undue stress on the barrel while you are shooting it. Also, make sure you don't prop the barrel on anything while shooting it. How steady is your position? Are all the screws snug (not too tight)?
You should also know that the old WW1 vintage surplus rifles will many times have very pitted bores and worn throats. These rifles will never be able to shoot all that well no matter what. If you have a bore like that then you should consider buying a new hunting rifle rather thn tying up a bunch of money in an old beater.
Wed, 2008-09-24 23:03#4
its an old wood stock..... plus i was just thinking of this just now.. so when i shoot normal targets all black or white with the black rings on it. i have a hard time seeing meaning straining eyes and cant focus on how small it is at a distance. but at 25yards i can see, got eye relief and can focus my shots.. when i got it sighted in at 25 yards the first time the last 3 shots were well grouped. im not wondering if i need to get it sighted it in at 50 yards and go 1 1/4" (1 click) high or even at 75yards. i wear glass's to drive because i cant read the signs at a distance untill i get right on em. but if i wear my glasses then i can read the signs at a distance. and i am using a bushnell 3x9 scope with my glass's on too, magnified at the 9 power. and the center of the target has to be a bright color for me to see at a long distance range.
Wed, 2008-09-24 23:28#5
Sounds like you have a lot of issues... You don't have a mauser, it is a 1917 Enfield produced by Remington, also called the Remington Model 30 after the war. You may not be able to do much better accuracy than what you are seeing. The manufacturing tolerances were intentionally loose to be able to fire while filthy. Also amen to the pitted bores on old military rifles. Also, you need to move your scope either backward or forward so that you have proper eye relief. Many Enfield triggers also have a long trigger pull which is also a detriment to accuracy.
So for GOD'S sake be patient and get close, or borrow a rifle. I can't believe that is the only option you have 20 days before season starts. You can for sure kill deer and elk with those groups, but don't you dare try to take a 300 yard poke.
Another point...getting 1 inch groups at 25 yards is roughly the same as 4 Minute of Angle, which translates to 4 inches at 100 yards. Thats just poor accuracy. I assume you have shot better groups than that before on other high caliber rifles, so your technique might not be a problem if thats the case. I blame the gun, borrow something else or buy a cheap one. Either is likely better than trying to turn that gun into a tack driver in 20 days.
Oh, one other thing, relieve some wood around the barrel if there is forend pressure.
Wed, 2008-09-24 23:42#6
ya i plan on taking 100 yrds or less. this is my first actual big gun that ive been around. my life revolved around ak47 sks's ect. and hand guns. but not hunting rifles with scopes.. plus the last few months has been hell to find new mounts and rings that will fit because my old ring bolts striped while putting on my new scope. and had to get new rings which wouldnt fit the mounts so had to find mounts.. plus all my buddies who hunt are going to be using their rifles so im pretty much screwed... ya i realized after i got my mounts that its not a mauser but the guy at the local gun store screwed me on that one so that helped the process of finding new mounts of screwing me bout 2 months of searching.
Thu, 2008-09-25 07:38#7
At the risk of repeating the obvious it sounds like this is a collectable more than a hunting rifle. An off-the-shelf 30/30 would probably serve you better as a hunting rifle than that one will.
Thu, 2008-09-25 08:50#8
My first though was is this a Rem mod 30 or a 1917 Enfield also. The 1917 has what is called a double pull trigger. That is it will have a bunch of take up before you get to where your ready to fire then it will have a lot of over travel after you fire.
I have a 1903 Springfield with a pitted bore and it shoots fine. It is in a custom made stock tho. This 1917 if in a military stock may well shoot good or might need some work. But mostly it sounds like the trigger puller needs some work. First shot out about 4 to 7 inches says that it's not the rifle to me. Are you holding your hand on top of the rifle when you shoot? Are you getting the legs of the bi-pod on solid footing everytime? I don't use a bi-pod but I understand that if the legs are not on firm soil or something firs, it will effect the way the rifle shoots. I hear it takes a little getting used to to use one right.
Next problem to concider is that your scope needs focusing. There should be a lock ring in front of the eye piece, loosen it by twisting the ring toward the front of the scope. Now point the rifle in the air and look at the cross wires. They should be sharp, they probably are not. Twist the eye piece in and out till you find tha spot where they appear in focus to you. Then tighten back down the lock ring.
Even if it was a bedding problem, the group wouldn't show what your talking about. It could be all over the paper or it could throw one shot out of the group a bit. 4 to 7 inches seems more than a bit to me. Adjust the scope focus and work on your technique. Then the rifle should start showing some type of consistent grouping.
Two more thoughts. It's always the first shot out? Perhaps you are anticipating the recoil on that shot and jerking the trigger? Also check that the action screws are tight, also the scope mount screws.
Fri, 2008-09-26 00:30#9
thank you all for your your help! great lee appriciated! thing is i am kinda stuck with my rifle because i cant afford another one right now. but can use everyones oppenion to help myself better with in the next 15 days.