I personally think that you will be a lot happier with the 30-06 than the .300. The availability of different loaded rounds is a big thing. You'll be able to find anything from 125 grain bullets all the way up to 220's with no problems. The scope should be bore sighted and you should be on paper at 100 yards but is is nice to start at 25 yards just to make sure. A couple of good all around loads for it would be with a 150 grain or 168 grain bullets. As for the scope I have no idea on who Remington is getting them from but it should take care of you for a while until you either want or need to upgrade.
went to the range today tryed getting scoped sighted in did as good as I could never shot nothing like this gun. before and sitting down and shooting is awkward, next time I need to support the back of the gun so Its not so hard to keep from moving while aiming but the gun shoots nice all of my groups were within 1.5 inch at 100 yards
Going to try supporting the back of gun with sand bag or something so I dont have to keep it steady, then I think I can get scope sighted in like laser! But after 20 Shots my shoulder was a little tender so I will get it dead on next time, got till dec 1st till Rifle season in my county anyways. Any tips or advice and what you think of grouping.
It's common that the first clean bore shot out of a rifle will impact at a significantly different point of impact than the rest of the group. That's why I don't clean my rifle after sighting it in for hunting.
Clean after hunting season or after you've shot 20 - 50 rounds through it, whichever comes first.
Funny how everyone buys like $1000 brownings, with 500-1000 dollar scope on it but yet after you sight it in. With
20-40$ bullets, you still have cold bore shot that usually does not hit were you aim!? Kinda useless to have such money wrapped up in a weapon when all You usally get off is
the First Shot...
I guess if your hunting small game it is worth it, or dangerous game. For deer anything that shoots striaght should do the job.
You can make your gun shoot to POA (point of aim) with the first shot from a cold barrel by doing just that at the range. Get it printing where you want it to (I'd suggest about 2" high at 100 yards) and then leave the bolt open and allow the barrel to fully cool. Then simply take one very deliberate shot from that cold barrel and check to see if it prints to the same POI (point of impact) as the other group.
You did well going with the '06 rather than the .300mag, you would have had a much sorer shoulder had you been shooting it at the range. From what I've read in your posts, I'd also suggest you look into a slightly lower power scope when you replace the "package" scope that came on your M700, likely an entry level Tasco, Simmons or Bushnell. I'd say a 2-7 would be an excellent compromise, giving you a good bit more FOV at close range over a 3-9 and also plenty of magnification for shots at 300 yards on big game animals (after you have proven you have the groups to be profficient at that extended range) Some reasonably priced examples of decent 2-7 variables would be; Nikon Prostaff, Burris FFII, Refield, Leupold Rifleman, Leupold VX1 and Weaver V7. I've owned examples of all and they are all decent scopes and a significant upgrade from the "package" 3-9 and all should be under or right at $200.
Keep on practicing at the range and best of luck in the upcoming seasons as you begin to hunt for hogs & deer in Florida.
Much better than the first. If that 700 ADL doesn't shoot it can probably be made to. I have one in 243 that was awful. I took it apart cleaned out everything, removed the hump in the front of the barrel channel, freel floater the barrel, opened up the recoil lug mortice and re-bedded it properly and It is a shooter now. I've read where lots of guy's get them shooting well right from the start.
As for a 1" shooter, there's a lot of rifle's that easily do that but not as many shooter's that can do that. At the ranges your talking about you should be good to go at 1 1/2". As for the cold barrel shot, it can be a time consuming job to wait for the barrel to cool in warm weather. Got shoot several time's and take two target's. The first target is for the cold barrel shot only, the second for all the other's.
Seem's to me that the biggest contributor to the cold barrel theory is an overly clean barrel. most rifles shoot better with a bit dirty barrel, don't ask why, I haven't a clue.
I think you made the better choice on caliber. The 300 mag can be pretty rough to tame if your just starting out. and for what you got planned for her, you would never see the difference in prefromance. I know people the shoot moose, elk, sheep and grizzly with a 30-06 all the time. Dont be fooled by anyone that tells you that you need a huge gun for black bears. chances are they never hav shot either a bear or a big magnum.
There can be too much of a good thing with antler rattling.
I like to hit the horns together for a good 30- to 40-second rattling sequence and then hang them up and resist the urge to hit them again.
This works to the hunter's advantage, because if a buck has heard it, he may have been 300 or 400 yards away and he comes in and he's not exactly sure where it came from.
When finally is time to rattle again throw a slight change-up into the routine.
The second time, don't rattle as loud...