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Location: Wisconsin
Joined: 12/26/2003
Posts: 20
more scope jazz

The gun : BAR 7 mag. White tails ,200 yds. I was looking at the scope market and its really getting nutty. I want to buy a one time scope.Low end : Buhnell 4200 Elite ,Nikon Monarch .On the upper end I see that Zeiss Conquest has an affordable scope to keep with some of the other makers in that price range.It is the one I am asking about,as to anyone who owns one and if they like it or is it just the Zeiss name on a run of the mill quality scope?Any opinions on any thing on this post would be great.

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Joined: 11/29/2003
Posts: 36
more scope jazz

I have never used that particular Zeiss scope before, but the few that I have on my guns are worth every penny spent. I would definatley recomend Zeiss optics. And i have seen adds for that scope and thats a pretty good price for zeiss.

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Location: Nebraska
Joined: 08/21/2003
Posts: 72
more scope jazz

I have used every Zeiss they make and yes the conquest is great. I put one on my friends 300 WBY and he loves it. If i was goin to spend the money i would get the
Zeiss.

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Location: Wisconsin
Joined: 12/26/2003
Posts: 20
more scope jazz

Thanks for the input. Ifany one has more opinions let em roll.

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Joined: 01/08/2004
Posts: 29
more scope jazz

I'm a bushnell 4200 fan. They are every bit as bright as those other scopes mentioned. They have 95% light transmition, are made from titanium allow (which makes them 30% stronger than standard aicraft grade aluminum)they have bushnells raingaurd coating (allows you to see through scope even if outside lenses are fogged over or wet) and they come with a money back garrentee. If your not happy with your elite within the first 12 months of ownership bushnell will reemberse you for the scope. Can't beat that. I have several and they are the best buy for your money. If you have any other questions about these scopes email me I am very familiar with them.

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Location: Wisconsin
Joined: 12/26/2003
Posts: 20
more scope jazz

My brother has a Bushnell and likes it .Iam not sure if its the 3200 or 4200 but it has the fire fly ret on it.He has not tried that out yet but overall likes the scope.Its on a Rem. 7 mag.

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Joined: 01/13/2004
Posts: 39
more scope jazz

Light Gathering Ability
Your eye is uniquely designed to gather more or less light as conditions change, your binocular is not. Since the light-gathering ability of a binocular is fixed, it is important to select a model that best meets your eye's need for light as viewing conditions grow darker. As we grow older, the maximum dilation of our eye pupil diamter slowly decreases from about 7mm or 8mm at age 20 to about 5mm at age 50. (Allow for variation in these figures due to hereditary or environmental factors).

Binoculars which use quality glass prisms made of costly, high density glass, such as the BaK-4 type, and provide clear, circular exit pupils. The glass quality also affects how clear the image appears across your viewing area. Quality glass delivers a "flat field" with clarity across the entire field of view.

The exit pupil and the twilight factor are indicators of how well you will see an image on a bright day, at twilight or at night.

Exit Pupil:

You can see the exit pupil as a circular beam of light in the eyepiece when you hold the binocular at arm's length. The exit pupil is the magnified image in the eyepiece as it leaves the binocular to enter your eye. Its relationship to the size of your eye pupil is important. Calculate the exit pupil according to this example:
7 x 35 binocular
35 ÷ 7 = 5mm (exit pupil)
It is much easier to keep the smaller eye pupil centered in the larger exit pupil of a binocular. So, you may want to use a binocular with a large exit pupil for activities like boating, when it is hard to keep a steady hand.

Viewing in bright conditions, the eye pupil ranges from 2mm to 3mm. Almost all binoculars gather more light than is needed by your eye since your eye is the limiting factor in observed brightness. So, you can look through a compact 8x20 binocular (exit pupil of 2.5mm) and see an image nearly as bright as that seen through a 7x50 binocular (exit pupil of 7.1mm).

Viewing at twilight, the eye pupil ranges from 4mm to 5mm.
For the best viewing, you'll want a binocular with a minimum exit pupil of 4mm. Consider 8x32 or 10x40 models to meet this standard. Viewing in dark conditions, the eye pupil ranges from 6mm to 8mm. You'll want a binocular offering the largest exit pupil you can handle. A 7 x 50 binocular may be hand-held, but you may want to mount larger models on a tripod.

Twilight Factor (or relative brightness):

During daylight hours magnification will be the principal factor in image resolution. At night when the eye pupil is dilated, aperture size is the controlling factor. In twilight conditions both of these factors control resolution effectiveness.

Twilight factor compares binocular performance under these conditions. Binoculars with a higher twilight factor will do a better job of resolving images under dim light conditions. To calculate the twilight factor of a binocular:
1) multiply the magnification by the aperture
2) find the square root of this product.
According to this indicator, a 10x40 binocular (twilight factor 20) will resolve better than a 7x35 binocular (twilight factor 15.4) even though the 10x40 has a smaller exit pupil. Remember, however, that the twilight factor does not take into account the light transmittance or glass quality of the optical system.

If your binocular measures field in degrees and you want to convert it to feet at a thousand yards for comparison it is simple to do. Each degree equals 52.5 feet at one thousand yards. So all you need to do is multiply your degree field of view by 52.5.

For example:
If your binocular field of view is 6.3 degrees, multiply 6.3 x 52.5 to get 330.75 feet/1000 yds.
***this is info I gathered from the web the last time I bought a scope. Hope it helps.***

[ This Message was edited by: urbaneruralite on 2004-01-14 12:41 ]

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