36 replies [Last post]
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Location: Denver, Colorado
Joined: 03/07/2004
Posts: 57
Large game rifle

can you just take the BOSS off? I thought once it was installed you can cant take it off. When you say groups reduced by 50% , what size groups and at what distance? I will agree that the wood is gorgeous, thats why I would want it, heirloom wuality, but you bring up a good point with the synthetic/stainless combo. It will give me something to think about.

Also, when you hunt with the boss in place do you use earmuffs, or do you just pound the crap out of your ears?

Offline
Location: Southeast Washington State
Joined: 09/28/2004
Posts: 117
Large game rifle

Sorry to take so long to get back to ya.

The BOSS just unscrews from the end of the barrel. If mine gets too snugged down or the threads get fouled up, I stick a dowel through the holes and it comes right off with the extra torque.

As far as group size goes, if I shoot my 7mm at 100 yards using 150 grain btsp bullets at 3,000 fps, with my BOSS off, the best I can manage is about 1.3 inches spread. If I put the BOSS on and tune it to the load, my groups average 0.6 inches or better minimum spread. Reloading helps even more, but my shooting ability won't let me get much smaller than that, and I think that is good enough for the hunting I do. I do all my shooting with earmuffs on. I work on communications equipment for a living, and I need to keep my hearing as long as possible or I am out of a job. I have never had a problem with them, and that includes both normal ones and electronic types. I can't wear earplugs, so I make do with what I can and it sure helps to keep my mind on the business of pulling the trigger and not what's going to happen to me afterwards.

I'd recommend getting a working gun first off, that way you won't be so paranoid about dinging the wood or the blueing up out in the field. Later on, you can spring for that heirloom gun, and then you will have the best of both worlds. Incidentally, if you are looking for a firearm that is just for collecting, don't bother with the BOSS. I think it takes a lot away from the aethsetics of the Browning A-Bolt medallion finish.

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Joined: 10/30/2004
Posts: 117
Large game rifle

Use the Boss for tuning. For recoil reduction its not the absolute best but does help. The one shot you hear while hunting won't be anything to worry about. If you even hear it.

As to recoil-- I've found that the bigger the person is the more recoil hurts them. More mass to absorb the pounding. My wife worries less than most about recoil, even up to the 460s and she's only 115. I"ve got a buddy that bought a 338. He's about 300 and 6/4. He whined and cried till he got a brake put on. Neither my wife or I think his 338 kicks bad at all before the brake.

But before you buy the browning test drive everyone there. Looks are absolutely not in the formula to buy a rifle for. Fit and accuracy are the 2 keys. Asthetics get you nothing. Heads turned counts for nothing. In fact, IMHO if you hunt with a shiny gun you need to reexamine what you are doing. That just spooks game.

Used to be the browning had terrible triggers but thats been solved I believe so the trigger is a non issue.

Get what fits you and feels best. You reallly can't go wrong nowdays. Each brand has a few negatives and positives. Savage is a super deal and are usually tack drivers FWIW.

Finally you cannot shoot what you cannot see. Get the best scope you can. I'd rather have a Leica on a savage than a Leupold on a Wtby. Hope that makes sense.

Best of luck, Jeff

I should have added I'm not pushing savage or dissing browning, just pointing out buy what fits you, not what looks best.

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Location: SW Washington
Joined: 06/24/2004
Posts: 38
Large game rifle
rost495 wrote:
The one shot you hear while hunting won't be anything to worry about. If you even hear it.

I have to respectively disagree. It only takes one shot to damage your hearing. EVERY high impulse noise that strikes the ear does some damage. It is cumulative and irreparable. The ear never recovers.

I know several whom suffer from tinnitus (constant ringing in the ear) who suffered only one exposure to high impulse noise. There are thousands more cases documented.

If you use a break (actually any time you fire a gun ... yes even when hunting) you should protect your ears. If you are to the side of a gun with a break it is even worse.

FWIW

Lee

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Joined: 10/30/2004
Posts: 117
Large game rifle

Lee

thanks for correcting me.

I suppose I know that from competitive shooting. And I never shoot even a 22 with hearing protection. Or run a chainsaw etc.....

I suppose I was kinda inferring that one shot every now and then was way less to worry about than sighting in without protection.

since we are on the subject my wife wears custom plugs and muffs. I don't like the muffs on the stock in matches but it sure does keep things quiet that way.

Anyway the cumulative effect is way less one shot a year than many shots a year. But you are right.

Jeff

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Location: Anchorage AK
Joined: 12/03/2004
Posts: 46
Large game rifle

I don't know if anyone else has noticed but there are guides here in Alaska now who will not allow a client to use a break on a hunt. Their own hearing is too precious to sacrifice to a client with too much gun that they can not handle.

Lee, you are right. Once is enough. Tinnitus is a bummer. I have a little case myself and lose a little bit of higher register hearing because of it. Still can hear the chickadees though.

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Joined: 10/30/2004
Posts: 117
Large game rifle

Modern brakes are loud but well designed. Such that downrange noise is much more than back at the shooter.

Plus they still make ear plugs Wink

I'm kinda curious how tinnitus starts. IE whats the difference in db from a regular magnum and one with a good brake. And I'll bet that the round from either is way more than whats good for your ears. But is the excess difference actually that much more damaging?

I've been rang much more by 357s and 44 pistols than any rifles.

Jeff

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Joined: 09/23/2004
Posts: 137
Re: Large game rifle
reconabe wrote:
The biggest factor for me is effectiveness, accuracy, and reliability. I want a rifle that is a tack driver, that will shoot well out to 350 plus yards.
.

me too. If you find one for less than $500 buy two and I'll take the other one. lol 338 is the caliber you're looking for. took this elk at 400 yards with my rem. 700 338 win mag:

338 is a great round. the tack driver part well....thats tougher. Short of a custom rifle nothing is guaranteed. I would suggest the savage weather warrior though. Savage is the most accurate factory rifle made today IMHO.

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Location: Cesspool of suburbia
Joined: 12/27/2004
Posts: 3
.35 calibers

Greetings,

I will not argue with everyone else who reccomended the .338's but I just wanted to chip in with: Don't overlook the .35's. A bigger diameter slower moving bullet is USUALLY the one with the most shock effect on game downrange, where it counts. Most of the common .35 rounds can be loaded to be more than accurate enough at reasonable shooting distances, (<400 meters). I will mention, in particular, the .35 Whelen Ackley Improved. A fine cartridge for anything on this continent, although it might not be the rifle I would choose to tackle a wounded bear in thick brush. However it kills bears nicely. Good luck with your decision. I reccomend Ruger M77 mkII rifles by the way. Best safety on the market, and a great rifle for your $. Big smile

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Location: granada hills
Joined: 01/13/2005
Posts: 6
Large game rifle

I also have a 270 Winchester and am going to upgrade to a more powerful round for elk, moose, and possibly brownbear. I spoke to a few technicians at Nosler, Barnes, and Sierra. They all seemed to really like the 338 Winchester Magnum. They said the 300's might be a bit light. I asked about the ultra mag and they agreed it recoils a bit much for not a lot more power plus the limited availability factor. I ordered an additional barrel for my h. s. precision rifle in 338 Winchester with a muzzle brake. I know the brakes are loud but I can wear small ear plugs and my partner can cover his ears for the one shot that I will take per animal. Some people would say a brake is not needed but I am just so used to my non recoiling 270 that I shoot it quite well. I even practice with my 270 on varmints.

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