Picked up some knife sharpeneres to try out. They work pretty well on my hunting knives. I did a quick video review if you have the time check it out. Just some field sharpeners to keep in my knife pack at hunting camp.Thanks.
15 replies [Last post]
Wed, 2012-04-18 21:50
Fri, 2012-04-20 03:33#1
I have been using the Chiefs Choice 120, for about 10 years now, it will put a awesome edge on any decent knife.
Fri, 2012-04-20 06:42#2
I learned how to properly
I learned how to properly sharpen a knife back when I was 10 years old and can still put a razors edge on just about any knife that I pick up in a few minutes and in my mind a wet or oil stone is still the only way to do it. I just cringe when I see where someone is using a grinder type of sharpener such as the Chiefs Choice or other electric sharpener on a good hunting knife. Then there are the sharpeners that take a small shaving of metal off of the blade when you pull the knife through it which it looks like the one that Perry is suggesting and I have the same thoughts about them. I will admit that a wet or oil stone does the same thing as a grinder but it does it in a lot smaller increments and I have never seen them damage a blade by misuse like the grinder type or metal shaving type will.
I will say that if you have a knife that you don't care about to go ahead and use a grinder or one that shaves metal off of the blade but give me a wet or oil stone every day, and if you learn how to use them some ceramic crock sticks work also.
Sat, 2012-04-21 21:58#4
My favorite sharpening system is the Lansky knife sharpener. Been using it for close to 25 years & it'll make a scary sharp edge.
I'll still pull out the stones and can sometimes do a pretty good job but often end up with a totally dull blade that then gets clamped in the Lansky. I see using stones as an exercise in the pursuit of perfection - never to be attained but always to be strived for. Kinda like casting a fly 100 feet with only one false cast, sinking a 40 foot put after a six pack or tying the perfect size 18 dry fly without using a vise. Seen them done but not by me!
I do have and do use a Chefs Choice 120, at least on my kitchen knives. I can't quite bring myself to use it on my hunting blades though. I've seen too many of them in commercial kitchens and meat cutting shops to think they are potentially damaging to quality steel - if used properly. Bare down too hard on a stone or ceramic sticks & its not hard to turn a good blade into a poor butter knife.
Mon, 2012-05-14 14:24#5
I have a similar system from Smiths, but I really don't like it all that much so I rarely use it. I find my own hand work gets a blade to the sharpness I like. I only touch my blades to any type of honing stone or heavy abrasive when the edge geometry of my knives needs to be reestablished or reprofiled. Aside from that I use a smooth butcher steel or ultra fine Lansky ceramic rod to touch-up or restore the keeness of my blades edges both in and out of the field. When either of those two fail bring back a sharp edge then I take the blade an old medium/fine grit 12"x3" Arkansas stone to reprofile the edge at about 17 to 20 degrees depending on the grind of a knife. But overall if I can help it I try to avoid the use of heavy abrasives or stones. Have a pocket sized butchers steel that I pack in my backpack when going in the field. If I do need an abrasive in the field then the fine diamond file on my Leatherman Wave will get used as a last resort.
Fri, 2012-05-18 09:49#6
I like, and use, the Lansky.
It's hard to get that wrong, in my expirience.
Fri, 2012-06-22 23:30#7
I am using American Angler Electric Fillet Knife as a chef from 5 hours , and it is also having replacement blade so no need to sharpen.
Wed, 2013-05-29 21:33#8
Different knives are
Different knives are sharpened in a different way according to grind edge geometry and application. For example surgical scalpels are very sharp but fragile and are usually disposed of rather than sharpened after use. get survival knives
Fri, 2013-05-31 08:06#9
intent of a knife
I think too many people today have completely lost site of what the intent of a outdoor/hunting knife is for. It's not an ax or a hatchet nor supposed to be used to hack through steel or concrete nor used to chop wood. Not sure where this whole idea of being able to cut yourself out of the fuselage of an aircraft came from.....maybe too many people who read the Rambo II book took it a little too literal. The intend of a good outdoor knife is to cut meat, prepare food, whittle a stick or branch, fashion tools from manageable peices of wood, cut leather, cut rope, cut hide and flesh. Anyone who thinks they need a knife to break a pelvis of a game animal or cut through game animal bones really needs to relearn the anatomy of a game animal and how to properly field dress it, how to disect quarters at the joint, etc. As far as survival....any good well designed knife can be a survival knife as long as it can do the basics of what a knife was intended to do.
Fri, 2013-05-31 11:37#10
It looks like the scammers
It looks like the scammers like to search for "knifes" and then post their web site onto the thread.
On another note, the so called survival knifes are fun. I actually have a couple of them that I have never used. I bought them for a few dollars years ago and put one in my truck and the other one is sitting in my garage. Now if anything ever happens where I need a 10" blade I will be prepared.
The funny thing is that I have never really seen a need for a knife with a blade over 5" in all of my hunting. I have cleaned elk with a 2 1/2" blade with no problem at all, it is all in knowing how to do the job. My main knifes sport a 4"-5" blade and all have cleaned multipul deer, elk, rabbits, fish, birds, and what ever else I have used them for.