I like Wasp SST hammerheads in 100 and 125. I haven't tried a lot of broadheads but this one works well for me and all the guys I hunt with.
Two seasons ago I stalked a deer in a high grass meadow and shot it quartering away at about 25 yards. My compound was set at about 60 pounds and the arrow entered slightly back as it should have for that angle. It took out the bottom half of two ribs as it exited. I found the arrow about 20 feet past where it exited. I've had and witnessed other equally impressive pass throughs with that broadhead.
I think there's a lot of great broadheads out there. If it's from a reputable company and if it shoots well from your bow, you're probably not going to be disappointed. I know guys who swear by mechanical broadheads too. I've never felt the need to change though.
I have tried more different broads than I care to remember and have settled on two- the Sattellite Titan 125 gr or 100 gr and the Wensel Woodsman 150gr. I used the Wensel Woodsman exclusivly last season and they were ASSUME!!
You do have to sharpen them as they do not come hunting sharp right out of the package(they tell you that). I used crotch sticks and achieved a scary sharp edge on them. They are available now in both glue on and screw-in.
There are times when the deer are simply not moving and you're forced to make something happen. Maybe you're up against a full moon or hot weather. This is when a silent drive to force deer to move should be considered.
By silent drive, you're not yelling and making a commotion to scare the deer. When deer are panicked, they're liable to bust out of the cover on a dead run, and any shot you get will be tough to make.
A silent drive is different. It means playing the wind to carry the driver's...