I've been watching the tent sale at Davis tents. They all have 6 inch stove jacks. Is this a problem if you use 4 inch stove pipe? What options are a must have? I wanted 2 screen doors or 1 screen door and window in the back. Is just a window enough? Has anyone used the disc o bunks from Cabelas?
8 replies [Last post]
Sat, 2011-04-16 21:16
Sun, 2011-04-17 05:36#1
My Wall tent is the Reliable brand out of MT, it is a 14' x 16', i use propane heat in it, and it works Great, with wood it is to hard to control the heat, IMO. i have the rear widow in mine, if it gets to warm, i just open the front door, bugs usually aren't and issue. i would buy the tent big enough that everyone can have a regular cot.
Sun, 2011-04-17 10:56#2
I'm most familiar with Montana Canvas tents. My 12 X 14 has only a regular door at one end with no rear window. A friend has two, both with rear windows. As mine was a gift from my wife it's perfect (just in case she reads this) but were I to buy another I would definitely get one with a window at the opposite end of the door. I couldn't care less if the door is screened as there so many ways for insects to get into a wall tent (typically made without floors) that the only thing a screen door will do is make it hard for wasps, etc. to get out.
I wouldn't sweat the 6 inch hole for the stove pipe either. I use a Cylinder stove out of Utah and swear by it. I've got an optional coal great for it so can use either wood or coal..Usually start with wood & bank the stove with a couple chunks of coal for the night. There's usually heat through out the night with plenty of coals to restart with wood in the morning. Had one guy complain about using coal referencing global warming once. Mr Gore (his newly christened nick name) spent the rest of the week in his environmentally safe pop up back pack tent using a foam pad under his bag - the tent being way too small for his recently purchased cot.
Haven't used the cots you mentioned. Are they the bunk bed stackable ones?
Sun, 2011-04-17 12:46#3
disc o bunk
Thanks for your replies!! The bunks are stackable and cost around $200. Good cots seem to run around $100. If I end up with a 12 x 14 tent and used 2 of these, I figured 4 people would not be to bad and if we had too 1 more single cot would be doable. I realy want a 14x 17. Even with that the bunks may be realy nice to free up space. WE are from PA and like to travel with 3 per truck to offset the cost of gas.
Sun, 2011-04-17 17:27#4
i would check out Reliable tent Company, they are a Great tent too, i have had mine for 7 or 8 years now, and it is just like new, i have had a couple of hunts in MT where i had 50 mph + winds for severial days, with no problems.
Mon, 2011-04-18 23:44#5
Not sure what your camp
Not sure what your camp situation will be, however do not stuff yourselves together for a week. I work for an outfitter and live in a tent from June 1 to Dec 4th or 6th depending on weather. we put three guests to a 14 X 16 tent. they fit perfect each with a personal cot, and one for a couch. All they are doing is sleeping. If you are cooking and living in this tent I would go bigger then 14X17. If it was me I would spend the money and get a bigger tent. stay away from aluminum frames. If you are staying close to a pickup they are fine. the ready made frames don't hold up real well, and they bend in wind. If packing in, cut your frame when you get to your camping spot (save on weight). Individual cots are the way to go. There are cots out there for about 100.00, that are very lite and sturdy. I would advise against the bunking thing. Bye visquin to put over your tent. This will save the canvas and keep you dry no matter what. It weighs nothing and can be condensed to almost nothing. To fasten it down to wood side rails, pack in 4 spikes. Wrap each end of vis-quin around a pole slightly longer then your tent and spike each end to the frame. This will keep the plastic from un wrapping. nail a stick to the outside of the rail, pinnig the plastic against the pole on both sides. Do this to both ends of your plastic. Make sure the plastic is pulled as tight as possible and free of kinks on the ridge. If you have a metal frame this will not work. As for the stove hole, it won't matter. Make sure the pipe is above the ridge and put a damper in half way between stove and tent. at night you can get a good bed of coals and turn the damper down to just barely open. You won't fry yourself this way and in the morning you will have coals, so some poor soul can jump up, open the damper throw a log in and within minutes the tent is warm. One last thing...I would stay away from windows. zippers go out very often on these tents, even the best made. Tents are drafty enough without adding windows. I've been living in the mountains 6 months at a wack for several years now. Hope my experience helps, and didn't make anyone mad.
Wed, 2011-04-20 10:27#6
we use army suprlus tents
We bought a 16x16 GP Small hexagon tent last year for $95 and my buddy just bought a 16x32 (could be a 20x32) GP Medium this spring for $500. It's gonna take a pretty large area for us to set up camp with all that, but there won't be any shortage of space.
Sun, 2011-04-24 12:16#7
I have one simple rule when it comes to buying a tent, what ever size i think i need, i buy the next size bigger, and i have always been happy that i did.
Tue, 2011-05-03 20:11#8
there are several options in the construction of the tent that you will want to consider.
what kind of frame will you be using? internal, external, wood, steel, aluminum? i prefer wall tents that are designed to be supported by an external wooden frame that you can cunstruct out of lodgepole (if you can where you are going) this is because it cuts down on weight and junk to carry around.
how will you be heating it? propane? wood stove? if it's wood, you should you get a sewn in fireproof liner under the stove jack.
will you be eating and sleeping in it? if you use it for both, i recommend a larger tent, 14x16 or larger. it's nice for when the weather turns bad.