If you mean like stripping the finish, if the limbs are fiberglass, choose solvents carefully or you could have a chemical delamination problem down the road.
AND watch skin contact! Depending on chemicals, you can have liver problems AND the toxins can be cumulative.
If fiberglass or composite limbs, be careful of any sharp edge tools or abrasives(sandpaper)to scrape finish off.(depending on the direction of the fibers in the "layup" the limbs could blow up when you draw.(like how a graphite bass rod breaks when you set the hook if the blank has a minute crack in it. Only with MUCH MORE DANGEROUS results.
I have mainly used water based acrylics when I re-camo now (hopefully "flat") to minimize glare in the sun.
I've used just basic "sponge" daubbing.(just get 2-3 different sponges and pour out the amounts you want into some peanut butter jar lids and have at it. You can lay a base color down on the overall limbs and riser or whatever too. There are no rules!!
I have even used ferns or other pieces of foliage as templates on top of the limbs and riser base coats to make it look really professional. Hey, if the color is broken up and the basic SHADES are close to the type of area you hunt in, you're fine. As a matter of fact, I tend to NOT use the same color/pattern camo on all my clothing at the same time when I BOW hunt. I just figure that maybe how the light might hit it may give me a better chance of having some part of me look not like a normal body.( And I'm too tight on funds to have every kind of camo for every situation..) It's NOT like waterfowl hunting where it REALLY DOES make a big difference (birds SEE color) big game see SHADES) and I've found that NOT LETTING THEM SEE YOU MOVE (deer and elk) IS probably MORE important as long as you HAVE A BACKGROUND and ARE NOT contrasting to your background.
PROVIDING (OF COURSE) YOU PAY STRICT ATTENTION TO THE WIND DIRECTION.
Try to put your tree stand in a tree with plenty of background cover, keep the prevailing winds for that time of the year to your face, and take care of those pesky squeaks and creaks your stand may have developed while sitting in the shed. A good treestand lube can be made by heating petroleum jelly until it reaches a liquid form. Some hunters have reported success by including a cover scent in this mixture before applying it to their stands.