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Location: Utah
Joined: 03/02/2005
Posts: 383
Browning BAR questions

For short distances under 100 yards, a heavier bullet of the 165-gr. or larger variety offers more flexibility than a 150-gr. load, which will blowup more easily at high velocites / short range situations.

Distances up to 100 yards typically include plenty of thick cover and the heavy for caliber loads are preferred. Personally, my 30-06 autoloader uses factory 180-gr. Winchester Supreme (Nosler) AccuBonds for everything - previously having used the (nonbonded version) 180-gr. Ballistic Silvertip for longer distances.

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Location: New Orleans
Joined: 11/02/2006
Posts: 1
Browning BAR questions

I have a new Browning BAR lightweight stalker, and I use the 165gr ballistic silver tip. Most of the people I talked to reccommend the 165 for medium range shots at deer or hogs. They said that a 150 is enough, but they usually use the 165, which kinda didn't make any sense.

My gun hasn't jammed up, even though I've only shot it 10 times so far. But I'm sure if you keep it clean, it will be fine.

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Location: Utah
Joined: 03/02/2005
Posts: 383
Browning BAR questions

Welcome to the Forum:

Normally, a 150-gr. PSP bullet of medium construction is fine for deer, but keep in mind that when using an aerodynamic hollow-point like the Ballistic Tip (BT), you need to add more weight to ensure adequate penetration.

Your choice of a Nosler 165-gr. Ballistic Tip is fine. Personally, I go one step better to the 180-gr. BT because I can get the best of both worlds with this weight: 1. Massive High Shock from the heavier duty hollow-point; 2. Reliable penetration at odd angles or raking shots.

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Location: Alaska
Joined: 11/25/2005
Posts: 33
Bar Load

30-06-BAR

165 Sierra GK BTHP
IMR 4350 @ 57.5
WLR Primer
WW Cases

Size in SB Dies

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Joined: 11/14/2006
Posts: 68
Browning BAR questions

I just recently purchased a BAR safari-stalker in a .270 cal. As far as the action goes it is very smooth with no jams up to this point(been through a little over 200 various rounds). The only problem I have had so far is cycling the rounds using the managed recoil ammo. The action didn't Jam it just had to be manually cycled because it lacked the pressure for the auto action.

As for the ammo there is no way for us to determine which ammo will work the best. It differs from every firearm so you will simply need to do some testing to determine which ammo works the best on your rifle. For my rifle the managed recoil ammo works the best giving me approximately 1" MOA while most other ammo gives me about 1.5-2" MOA.

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Location: Western ans Northern Canada
Joined: 06/26/2007
Posts: 80
Browning BAR questions

The Browning Bar is a really fine rifle.I bought a new Safari grade Bar in 1993,it was built in Belguim,the caliber is 7mm Rem. magnum. I wanted one since I was a kid.
The workmanship and finish is excellent and the accuracy can be 1'' groups at a 100 yards.
I have one word of warning,and Auton gave some advice on this; special care must be taken if you try reloading.The gun functions flawlessly with any factory ammo,but with reloaded ammo it would frequently jam,when the bolt was closing with a new round.The bolt would jam about 3/8ths of an inch from being closed,and then would not open or cosed,stuck!! I and several others reloaded for it with the same results,and determined that certain brands of used cases jammed(hence use all the same brand or buy new ones.),and that the cases needed to be resized with the proper dies for this auto.
But I do love this auto I would not part with it!
My uncle was a noted hunting guide,even took Bobby Orr on a hunt,and his gun was a Browning Bar 30.06!

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Joined: 06/18/2007
Posts: 20
Browning BAR questions

When you chamber a round dont pull back on the bolt handle and let it slide forward slowly... pull it back and let it snap closed ! I missed a really nice buck once because the bolt wasn't closed all the way, and when I pulled the trigger nothing happened. Shame on You!

Otherwise the B.A.R is the most accurate Auto you can own.

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