What ever you use for deer will be fine. They are not particularly tough animals at all, and if you are shooting well with what you have, the old saying holds up. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." ......
personally, i use one of three kinds. NAP thunderheads, zwicky eskimo's (two blade, for my recurve... it shoots 145 fps unlike my compound which is in the 290's) and G5 montecs.
i prefer the thunderheads, i've always gottent the cleanest bloodtrails from those. muzzy makes some good ones as well. but the biggest factor controlling penetration is arrow speed and weight. a good heavy arrow will carry a poor broadhead through an animal. stick with something simple... lots of technology and engineering is put into mechanicals these days... but then again, i've lost two nice bucks to them not leaving a bloodtrail. (i was using G5 tekkan's) i understand many others have had different experiences with mechanicals, but if you ask me, it's one more thing to fail when when it counts the most.
I totally agree. hit em hard and you'll have a good blood trail. I have been in the speed vs penetration discussion before and still think it's better to use a fixed blade broadhead @ 100-125 grains with the biggest cutting diameter I can find. I have a brother-in-law that uses an overdraw with 90 grain mechanical broadheadson light arrows, no doubt it's fast. Think of it this way would you rather be hit by a golof ball or a really fast golf wiffle ball? fast is good but it's all about the penetration!
The only time I ever shot a 'lope with a bow I used a 3-blade spitfire mechanical BH, 100grns. I made a double-lung shot and the arrow passed completely through. He was dead in less than 10 seconds, but a pronghorn can run a long way in 10 seconds. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to use spitfires again on antelope, but I concur with the others, use what you're comfortable with. Anything that will bring down a whitetail will work.
Try to put your tree stand in a tree with plenty of background cover, keep the prevailing winds for that time of the year to your face, and take care of those pesky squeaks and creaks your stand may have developed while sitting in the shed. A good treestand lube can be made by heating petroleum jelly until it reaches a liquid form. Some hunters have reported success by including a cover scent in this mixture before applying it to their stands.