I use a range finder for hunting. I find them to be useful when your hunting in an area that has some clear cut or meadows. I don't really carry it around my neck like bino's but I do keep them handy. If I see something that maybe across a draw or drainage sometimes it's hard to really guess the yardage. And when I'm looking through my scope at the amimal I want to harvest and it's on the border of my comfortable shooting range, I want to have the most info possible to help me harvest my trophy. Besides, they are really helpful when sighting in your firearm and sometimes when I'm golfing. :smile:
I have the Bushnell Yardage Pro Scout. It's a small compact unit that you can use with one hand. This makes it nice for what I was saying about keeping it handy. I just keep it in my jacket pocket so that I can grab it when I need it. Good Luck.
[ This Message was edited by: PS350XLT on 2003-08-20 09:09 ]
I hunt several food plots with possiblity of a long shot i borrowed a rangfinder and made marks on trees on the edges of the plots to indicate ranges from my stand. This works well because you dont have to buy the range finder just borrow one.
goodness, i'm not a big game trophy hunter yet, just an engineer by education. i would save my money and the next time i go to the shooting range i think i'll just mark my scope at the 50, 100, 150yards and so on. and save my money and not have to drag something else out into the field.
GPCINC, I think you will find out that after you get your gun sighted in at the range that the animals that you will be shooting at won't be standing by yardage markers. If you are within 150-200 yards most poeple can guess with decent accuracy the distance to there big game. But if you start going out side that distance then you have to start considering a few variables. I won't try and get into them all but here's a couple.
Let's say you are shooting across a flat hay feild and the Buck is between 300-400 yards. This is a big Buck and you really want to harvest him. Are you really sure about the distance to him? How much bullet drop is that going to be at 300 or at 400 yards? You don'treally know how high to aim if you don't know "for sure" how far the buck is. The same goes if you are shooting across a canyon. That distance is always farther than is looks with the naked eye.
I carry a range finder and use it quite frequently. If I didn't own one I would borrow one or get with a couple of guy's and go in together on one. I want to make sure that when I do pull the trigger on an animal, I know that the bullet is going to hit where I'm aiming and make the most humane kill on that animal.
[ This Message was edited by: PS350XLT on 2003-09-02 08:17 ]
[ This Message was edited by: PS350XLT on 2003-09-02 08:19 ]
i think i'll just adjust my scope to the yardage markers at the range. then mark my scope. what's wrong with that? i really don't think you guys understand what i am talking about. maybe i should hold up a sign for you !!
Gpc, its not hard to learn how to range with a scope if you talk with someone that knows how to do it correctly. Some scopes such as Leupold make the recticle to fit the brisket of a whitetail deer at such and such range. You can use that if you have nothing else. I personally don't go cheap on the optics because its not going to do me any good to shoot blind.
A range finder is relatively cheap, and less than $200 when you shop around for just a 400 yard range finder is is plenty for most hunters being that they don't shoot further than 150 anyway, even at the practice range. Its definetly worth the money.
I think what GPC was talking about was using a variable magnification to bring the optical plane in/out of focus. By doing that at the target range you can mark on the side of the scope where say a 100 yards is in focus, then 150 etc.... Maybe GPC was talking about something else though.
Using the reticle is kind of a rough like you say Curtis, since game is not always dead on broadside, nor does it necessary fit the exact size of calibration or nicely fit on the reticle markers.
There are times when the deer are simply not moving and you're forced to make something happen. Maybe you're up against a full moon or hot weather. This is when a silent drive to force deer to move should be considered.
By silent drive, you're not yelling and making a commotion to scare the deer. When deer are panicked, they're liable to bust out of the cover on a dead run, and any shot you get will be tough to make.
A silent drive is different. It means playing the wind to carry the driver's...