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BleuBijou's picture
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Annealing Brass

When should you think about annealing your brass? When it is obvious, I think it is to late correct? It probably differs from caliber to caliber depending on how hot the loads? I am guessing 3 or 4 shots or reloads , but I may be off base. Also, how many times can I reload after this process? Thanks!

Critter's picture
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I have done it at times on

I have done it at times on brand new unfired brass and then at times once I start seeing neck cracks in other brass. If you wait you will loose some brass but I like to do a couple hundred at a time and I just don't reload some of my calibers that much.

I have gotten 7+ loads out of brass that I have annealed with no signs of a case crack.

Don Fischer's picture
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I have anneled very few

I have anneled very few case's. Don't see the advantage to it. Usually long before I find neck splits, the primer pockets start getting loose. I guess there is a tool to tighten up the pocket's but why? Case's are not really all that expensive if you consider they normally last at least 5 time's reloaded. 

possum's picture
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7+

Critter wrote:

 

I have gotten 7+ loads out of brass that I have annealed with no signs of a case crack.

 I have got 7+ loads also with my 338WIN  but like don said here by that time the primer pockets are getting loose and MOST  new brass is not that expensive. I SAID MOST....LOL

 I use a magnifying glass and lights to check all of my brass (externally) but i usually just toss it rather than try to fix it to get one more round out of it. I also use the paper clip to check the brass for stretch. I have had some cases crack over the years but most times the primer pocket goes first.

 I'm not sure what i was thinking years ago but i have enough brass, bullets and powder to last me 2 lifetimes...... I'm sure, if i don't change rifles

 Guess i should add i have never annealed any brass at any time, i form it to that rifle and it stays with that 1 rifle till its done. And only Neck size or partial neck size from then on

Critter's picture
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I guess that I should of

I guess that I should of clarified that the ones that I anneal the most are brass that I am either necking up or necking down for a different caliber from its parent case such as a .357 Herrett, or a 7/30 Waters from a .30-30 case. Also I will do it to a lot of my pistol cases since the case mouth is worked a lot when you flair it out to receive the bullet or crimp it to hold the bullet.

Usually by the time that I notice that the primer pockets are enlarging the case is done and goes into the recycle bin. I'll also say that 90% of my pistol rounds for my .44, .41, and .357 mags are downloaded for enjoyment while I am shooting them and not a full power load that causes excessive stress on a case.

WesternHunter's picture
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brass

I've never done anything like that to the necks of my brass either, though I have seen where many reloaders do so.  Never seen the point to be frank.  Probably would be a good idea to know something about heat treatment of metals before attempting that, at least knowing what color range to remove your torch. 

BleuBijou's picture
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Location: Loveland , Colorado
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I have

Watched a video on Youtube on it and it was very good. I am going to try it with some of my Expensive brass and see if it gives me 2 or 3 more loads. I will try some 5.56 brass as well. Looks time consuming , but what isn't!!! I have 2800 5.56 to load. I just finshed a little over 600 5.56 and 450 .308. Waiting for some powder for the big magnums as I only have 3 pounds. Wanting to try a heavier bullet. I get about 64 rounds out of a pound of powder with the big magnums running 107.5 grains of powder per round. Powder burner for sure. My problem is I like to shoot too damn much.

groovy mike's picture
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yes if necking up or down

Yes, if you are forming cases to a new cartridge I would recommend annealing just the kneck and shoulder area (NOT the base of the case). I have never needed to anneal any brass that I am not reforming into something else except 303 British. My 303 cases tend to start splitting after 3 or 4 loadings unless I anneal them. I have never had to repeat the process once the cases are annealled.

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