I have a bunch of 8x57 Mauser brass that I've been reworking. I now have them deprimed but I'm wondering if it's safe to use modern boxer primers in these. They originally had berdan primers and the picture below is what they look like now after I removed the berdan primer. Also, after I removed the original berdan primer, I used the RCBS Swager tool to reform the pocket then drilled out the flash hole. My concern is the 2 original berdan holes next to the center primer flash hole. Is this safe? Thanks
9 replies [Last post]
Sat, 2014-03-08 20:00
8x57 Brass - safe to use modern boxer primers?
Sat, 2014-03-08 20:35#1
From what I can remember
From what I can remember reading about them years ago and I mean years at least 30 or so you can reuse the cases. I remember one of the ways that they talked abou to remove the old primer once the crimp was removed if it was crimped was to use hydrolic pressure. You would fill the case with water and then use a wood dowl that fit through the neck. Then place the case onto something where the primer was still exposed and then plcae the dowl into the case and smack it with a hammer.
Sounded like a lot of work for a case that you should be able to find new one of but if it works it works.
Sun, 2014-03-09 08:36#2
Critter, I removed my primers
Critter, I removed my primers a little differently - I used conventional tools, a drill and pliers. It was a lot of work, took about an hour to get 20 done but since I have so much, I figured it'd be worth the timer/effort if I can use them. Problem I'm having is finding 8x57 availability. So, I'm trying to get brass the old fashioned way, either find it on the range or shoot and keep it. When I read about using water to remove the spent Berdan primers, the person continued to say to keep using Berdan primers - not boxer. I just don't understand why. I can't find any credible article stating NOT to use boxer primers, so I'm trying to find info from someone who might know if modern primers are safe or not in this brass.
Sat, 2014-03-29 08:51#3
If it were me I would try a few lighter loads first. You think all that is happening is that the powder is getting ignighted faster or more efficient. But that is my thinking. Some old timer will know. They are great for this info. I can listen for hours when they talk reloading. I am almost 50 and I am calling them old timers!! Wonder what kids call me?
Sun, 2014-03-30 18:00#4
Is that center flash hole in
Is that center flash hole in the case when you deprimed it? That looks like a boxer primed case? Did you try running one through a re-size die? you might be able to get a Lee deprime tool and knock them out with a hammer. The only berdan primed case's I've ever seen were photo's. I don't recall that center flash hole in them. There is a tool made to decap berdan primer's.
Just did a search on them. Ther is a tool made with to pins on it, sounds similar to the Lee tool. Put it in and turn the case by hand to find the holes and tap them out with a hammer. All this ssounds like a whole lot of bother to me. Has to be 8x57 case's somewhere. Have you tryed necking up 7x57 case's?
Mon, 2014-09-01 08:35#5
Rimmed 8x57 here are some good ones :)
These are in stock
Mon, 2014-09-01 08:36#6
Regular Mauser 8x57 brass Here:
Hope this helps
Wed, 2014-09-03 12:57#7
or just use berdan primers
It would be a lot easier just to reload with Berdan primers. Last I knew Dansammo had them in stock cheaper than boxer primers.
Mon, 2014-09-08 17:58#8
Thanks everyone for the
Thanks everyone for the advice. I went with standard old Winchester brass. Found it on Midway, same price as -06 brass. Haven't had issues with it yet, got some 180 gr. Barnes TSX loaded in them. I'm starting to load for hunting now, let you know how it does.